CATTLEYAS: Yellow Flowers Show Crippling

Cattleya Alliance Orchid Doctor

by Robert M. [Bert] Hamilton (Compiler)

Originally published in The Orchid Doctor in 1980 and 1988

Posted by Sys Admin almost 4 years ago.

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Lineage is more responsible than environment; some yellows vary from year to year, and from stem to stem. A76-1102
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Cattleyas Comments
CATTLEYAS: Anther Discoloration Black; in a florist's cooler it spreads to underside of column and throat; occurs when they are lighted to delay flowering in growing; if not that, it may be due to a fungus as in cymbidiums; lower the humidity at night; give more daylight. A74-217 0
CATTLEYAS: Bifoliate Species in Breeding Yellow, orange, red and green hybrids as derived from C. aclandiae, aurantiaca, bicolor, forbesii, granulosa, leopoldii (guttata), schillerana, and velutina; refer to OD74-5+ 0
CATTLEYAS: Brown Striations and Cracks Show in Pseudobulbs These curious striations are abcission zones which produce cracks; cause is not known nor is a cure; apparently not pathological. A66-311; AH59 0
CATTLEYAS: Control of Blooming Time Flowering control must be started before buds are initiated. A69-524 0
CATTLEYAS: Control of Flowering Use of lights in speeding up growth at different temperatures, to maintain flowering every six months; refer to A59-163+ 0
CATTLEYAS: Cracking of Pseudobulbs Horizontally Some break off at the crack line; they develop year after year; possibly genetic in source; treatment for nutrient deficiency has not been effective. AH59 0
CATTLEYAS: Fertilizing Program High nitrogen 30-10-10 or 10-10-10 is good for period March to October at 1 tpg every 10 or 14 days; from November to February apply every 21 to 28 days; for every fourth feeding all year long use low nitrogen feed 6-30-30. OD73-115 0
CATTLEYAS: Flared Petals Flaring is a rather unstable characteristic which varies from one blooming to another; it is known as peloria; the Lc's. stem from Laelia purpurata; the straight cattleyas from C. intermedia, especially var. 'aquinii'; history of breeding given; refer to OD80-5+ 0
CATTLEYAS: Flowers Open Prematurely Cloudy weather causes short-day effect and stimulates flowering; weak light causes lack of carbohydrates. A77-619 0
CATTLEYAS: Flowers "sooting" May be flyspeck (microthyriella) or leaf-spot (Phyflos tictina pyriformis); use Benlate 1 ttpg.; use also more ventilation. A79-124 0
CATTLEYAS: Flowers with White Warts Likely caused by spider mites; use malathion or Kelthane, plus 1/2 teaspoon liquid dish-washing solution per gallon of water. A78-1124 0
CATTLEYAS: Hereditary Influences In breeding they have certain dominant characteristics; refer to A60-14 0
CATTLEYAS: How to Delay Blooming On other than C. mossiae try 65 deg.F night temperature November 1 to January 25 or 30, then drop to 55 deg. to May 1, then up to 60 to 65 deg. to flower. A78-909 0
CATTLEYAS: Leads; Only One of Four New Ones Produced Flowers This is not uncommon due primarily to culture, but parentage is a factor; try good culture first. A67-1010 0
CATTLEYAS: Leaves as Indicators Avoid plants with red color unless all the seedlings show red; avoid pleated or irregular leaves. ODA78(l)23 0
CATTLEYAS: Leaves with Hooks on Their Ends A pronounced hook to the leaf indicates an award-potential plant; also the lower third of the leaf will be the widest. ODA78(l)23 0
CATTLEYAS: Light Requirements To flower moderately well they should have 1,500 fc. A79-124; no buds set if daylight exceeds 18 hours. A80-513 0
CATTLEYAS: Minimum Optimums For spring flowering: 55 deg.F.nights, 50% relative humidity, 4,000 fc.in summer and 2,000 fc. in winter; Autumn flowering plants need 50 deg.F nights; 40 to 50% relative humidity, 2,000 fc. in winter and 4,000 in summer. AU71-135 0
CATTLEYAS: No Bloom on C. Mary Schroeder with 20 Pseudobulbs, Half with Sheaths Use night temperature of 55 deg.F, not 68 deg.F.; divide plant. A79-4 0
CATTLEYAS: Reasons for Non-flowering Some leads do not flower under good cultural conditions; a high percentage of them result from too high night temperature; or, from crowding, shrivelled growth from improper watering and root loss, and weak growths. A64-145 0
CATTLEYAS: Repotted Plants Developed Roots But the Leaves Became Soft and Bulbs Shrivelled To cure, put all in a polyethylene bag, close the top, place it out of direct sun for three weeks for new roots to show. A72-55 0
CATTLEYAS: Seedlings Received with Stems Black or with Brown Streaks For details of treatment refer to A73-326; spray heavily with Truban 1 tpg.; not a virus disease. A73-991 0
CATTLEYAS: Tetraploids Can be identified by the thick succulence of their leaves and their sharp edges. ODA78(1)23 0
CATTLEYAS: Two-month Old Sheaths Do Not Produce It is not abnormal, some species mature their growths months before flowering; growers can make use of lights to extend "length of day" to slow flowering time after sheaths are made up; 75 to 95 days after lights are turned off the buds come into flower. A63-392 0
CATTLEYAS: Unifoliate Sometimes Grown Bifoliate and Even Trifoliate Depends on culture and environment; better conditions stimulate bifoliate leads; wrong temperatures and long periods of light inhibit flower initiation. A70-916 0
CATTLEYAS: Weak Growths in the Winter Because of Lack of Sun Do not remove weak growths, they produce photosynthates. A71-609 0

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